Pickpocket Gangs of Addis Ababa

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Ethiopia is the first stop on our tour of northeast Africa. We had three nights booked in Addis Ababa and no organized plan ahead of time. All the other stops on this trip required fairly extensive visa applications and organized tour planning and Ethiopia was basically just left over. Looking at the stuff people do […]


Churros & Chocolate

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We finished our quick little South American tour in the same place we started, Buenos Aires. Like Peru, and maybe even moreso, we know this is a place we’ll be returning to. It’s a major hub that will bring us to some of the other places in the region that we want to visit further. […]


A Country You’re Likely To Miss

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Years ago, we received a book called “501 Must-visit cities” as a gift. Despite sitting on the shelf amongst a row of much more specialized travel books, we’ve actually thumbed through the thing enough that it’s beginning to show a bit of wear. We go to the index and look up listings by country and […]


You Can’t Visit Machu Picchu On A Day Tour

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Our visit to Peru was an unexpected bonus, resulting from an unnecessarily arduous flight itinerary. Each of the flights between Montevideo and Asuncion included twenty-hour layovers in Lima. We took advantage of each of these with two custom day tours, including pickup and dropoff at the airport. Needless to say, this first visit to Peru […]


First Visit To The Dark Continent

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Dozens and dozens of countries visited over the years, and not one visit to South America. A friend of ours called it “The Dark Continent” because, over time it started to seem intentional. The truth is simply that between mileage runs to East Asia, visits there just kept getting pushed back. But the stars aligned […]


Without Even Touching A Dollar

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Some trips are an adventure. Marked by stress and the excitement of the unpredictable, these trips are something like work. At times, you might be able to appreciate an adventure when it is underway. Oftentimes though, in the moment, they can be marked with the discomfort of deprivation. Appreciation, really deep appreciation of an adventure, […]


All Flights Lead To Rome

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The prospect of being stranded and overstaying your visa in a weird police state and facing huge fines or even jail time is… sobering. That’s exactly what we were facing at 3 am at the Ashgabat airport. Travel can be stressful, and arguments can happen even on otherwise very nice trips. I’d say most arguments […]


If North Korea and Las Vegas had a child

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After seeing similar themes emerge in multiple countries, you might convince yourself that you’ve seen it all. And then… you visit a place so off the radar weird that you’re reminded of just how much there is to see in the world. Turkmenistan is one of those places. Over the years, my blog posts have […]


The Pensioner Pilaf Trail

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Traveling through Southeast Asia, we came to recognize something we referred to as “The Banana Pancakes Trail.” This is essentially a well-worn tourist circuit where one can stay in cheap hostels and make your way across several countries. Most hostels seemed to offer banana pancakes on their breakfast menu, not exactly authentic local cuisine, hence […]


Beyond The UPS Service Area

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When I read that all private parcel couriers had left Tajikistan, I must admit that I made some assumptions about the country. I assumed their departure was related to either remoteness or violence and instability. In actuality, they were ejected for not playing well with the dictator that has run the country since the fall […]


The Soviet Bread Line Border Crossing

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We’ve been through a few sketchy overland border crossings before. Come to think it, many overland crossings can seem a bit dicey at times. Crossing from Kazakhstan into Kyrgyzstan was definitely one of those times. We had just met our driver Hasan, who spoke zero English, that morning in Almaty. The drive to the border […]


Fermented Horse Milk For The Road

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I was pretty sure before even starting this trip that gaining any weight wouldn’t be an issue. It’s an active itinerary with a fair bit of walking and hiking, sure, but that can easily be offset by rich lavish meals on a daily basis. So that’s not the reason. The issue really is that Central […]


A Day Trip By Air

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Day trips to nearby cities are a given. Occasionally we’ve been able to make a day trip to or through an adjacent country. Without exception so far, these trips have been overland. For this trip, we decided to try something new right at the beginning: visiting another country with a roundtrip plane ticket on the […]